This lap blanket is quick to crochet, and warm without being overly heavy. It was designed to make use of the aran/worsted weight 100g and 25g skeins of Harvest Hues wools that are available from John Arbon Textiles.
The blanket uses simple crochet stitches to make four linen stitch panels with rows worked across two panel edges, forming a right-angled corner. The panels are slip stitch crocheted together before the double crochet border is added.
The pattern is available in UK crochet terminology.
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Fall Into Winter Blanket Pattern
Fall Into Winter Blanket is available for free further down this page or can be quickly purchased using the ‘Buy now’ button below. This is from my Provenance Craft Co where you can buy printed or digital copies and I have ‘pay what you can’ options.
It can also be purchased on Etsy and Ravelry. Click on your preferred icon for more pattern details, or to purchase:
Finished Measurements
Blocked measurements of:
- Unblocked 110cm/43.25″ wide and 92cm/36.25″ long.
- Pinned out to 113cm/44.5″ wide and 98cm/38.5″ long.
- Blocked 112cm/44″ wide and 94cm/37″ long.
Materials Required
Yarn: Harvest Hues Light Aran/Worsted by John Arbon Textiles, 100g/200m/219yds, 65% Organically farmed Falklands Merino/ 35% Devon Zwartbles.
Main Colour – Blue Spruce, 600g/1200m/1312yds (6 x 100g skeins)
CC1 – Flax, 35g/70m/77yds (2 x 25g mini skeins), CC2 – Russet, 48g/96m/105yds (2 x 25g mini skeins)
CC3 – Bracken, 48g/96m/105yds (2 x 25g mini skeins), CC4 – Pomegranate, 29g/58m/63yds (2 x 25g mini skeins)
Yarn is by John Arbon Textiles. If you buy from the following link, I will get a small commission if you buy something, but it’s at no extra cost to you: www.jarbon.com
Hooks: 5mm hook (US H/8) for panels, 6mm hook (US J/10) for joining, 5.5mm hook (US I/9) for border
Other materials: 6 x place markers, tapestry needle, blocking equipment
Yarn Substitute Suggestions
Mid Range
Filcolana Peruvian Highland Wool, 50g/ 100m/ 109yds; 100% wool
Cascade 220, 100g/ 200m/ 219yds; 100% wool
Budget
Drops Karisma, 50g/ 100m/ 109yds; 100% wool
Two strands of 400m/ 437yds per 100g yarn held together will create an aran/ worsted weight yarn of approximately 200m/ 219yds per 100g.
Stitches, Techniques & Abbreviations (UK terminology)
- chain, double crochet, double crochet back loop only, slip stitch join, invisible join.
- crocheted in rows with corner chain space to create a right angle
beg – beginning BLO – back loop only CC – contrast colour ch – chain ch-sp – chain space cm – centimetre dc – double crochet (US single crochet) dcBLO – double crochet back loop only (US single crochet back loop only) ea – each FLO – front loop only g – gram m – metre MC – main colour pm – place marker rep – repeat rnd – round RS – right side sk – skip ss – slip stitch st(s) – stitch(es) WS – wrong side yds – yards yrh – yarn around hook “ – inches
Stitches, Techniques & Abbreviations (US terminology)
- chain, single crochet, single crochet back loop only, slip stitch join, invisible join.
- crocheted in rows with corner chain space to create a right angle
beg – beginning BLO – back loop only CC – contrast colour ch – chain ch-sp – chain space cm – centimetre ea – each FLO – front loop only g – gram m – metre MC – main colour pm – place marker rep – repeat rnd – round RS – right side sc – single crochet (UK double crochet) scBLO – single crochet back loop only (UK double crochet back loop only) sk – skip ss – slip stitch st(s) – stitch(es) WS – wrong side yds – yards yrh – yarn around hook “ – inches
Helpful tutorials for Fall Into Winter Blanket
If you are new to some of the crochet stitches used in the Fall Into Winter Blanket, here are some tutorials to help you make them:
- Double crochet (US single crochet) – click here for a video tutorial OR here for a photo tutorial
- Changing Yarn Colours tutorial
- Invisible joins – click here for a video tutorial OR here for a photo tutorial
Fall Into Winter Crochet Blanket Pattern
Tension/ gauge
Unblocked linen stitch of 18 sts and 17 rows over 10cm/4″. Blocked linen stitch of 17.5 sts and 16 rows over 10cm/4″.
Notes
Choosing a hook size: whichever hook size you start with to get gauge, I suggest going up a full 1mm hook size to join the panels together, as slip st joins can be very tight, which can create uneven or puckered seams. You may also want to move up a 0.5mm hook size for the border rounds. When you block the blanket, it is likely to grow, and going up 0.5mm will help to create a more even gauge.
Pattern conventions: the pattern is set up for right-handed users. I place my yarn over the hook (not under) as I create stitches throughout this pattern.
Row/ panel counts: Within the paid for PDF, on Page 4, there are ‘O’ symbols that can be ticked off or coloured in to keep a tally of your progress through each row and panel.
Corner ch-sp: from Row 2 onwards, you will work a corner ch-sp and then continue to work down the edge of the panel. This means that each row actually coves two edges of the panel, with a right-angle in the corner. When working the (1dc, ch1, 1dc) for the corner sts, keep your tension loose across those three sts. Crocheting them too tightly will create an uneven panel and make it difficult to work into during the next row.
Row starts and finishes: from Row 2 onwards, every panel row starts with 2ch and ends with 1dc.
Row stitch counts: double crochets, chains and chain spaces all included in end of row stitch counts.
Colour changes: these are always made in the final yrh of the stitch before the new colour is required (see Progress and Colour Table in paid for PDF) for where changes are made).
RS/WS: although the pattern states RS/WS, it is only for ease of keeping track of the pattern. When it comes to joining the panels together and adding the border, use whichever side you prefer for a RS.
Invisible join: Thread yarn onto tapestry needle. Skip first st of rnd and place needle from front to back through both loops of 2nd st, pull yarn so it sits on top of front loop of skipped st. Place needle from front to back through back loop of last st of rnd, pull yarn so it sits on top of back loop of skipped st. The sewn join should match the tension of the two sts either side. Turn to WS and weave in end, sewing in same direction of your crocheted rnds to keep tension on the join.
Finishing your blanket: wet block your blanket and pin it out according to the dimensions given. This will even out any gauge differences you had across the four panels. Once dry, weave in remaining ends.
Pattern
Blanket panels – make 4 in total
Using MC and smallest hook size, ch22.
Row 1: 1dc in back bump of 4th ch from hook (chains 20 & 21 do not count as a st), pm ch-sp (move up ea row), *ch1, sk1 ch, 1dc in back bump of ch; rep from * to end, turn. (20 sts) O
Row 2: ch2 (counts as a st here and throughout), sk first dc, 1dc in ch-sp, pm ch-sp just made (move up ea row), *ch1, sk1, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from * to end, ch1, pm (move up ea row, this is the corner ch-sp and marks the point where 2st increases are made with every row), 1dc in same ch-sp, turn. (22 sts) O
Row 3: ch2, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in corner ch-sp, *ch1, sk1, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from * to end, turn. (24 sts) O
Row 4: ch2, sk first dc, *1dc in ch-sp, ch1, sk1; rep from * to pm, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in corner ch-sp, ch1, sk1, 1dc in ch-sp, changing to CC1 on last yrh of final st, turn. Keep MC attached. (26 sts) O
Row 5: ch2, sk first dc, *1dc in ch-sp, ch1, sk1; rep from * to pm, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in corner ch-sp, *ch1, sk1, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from * to end, turn. (28 sts) O
Rows 6-72: Rep Row 5 a further 67 times, increasing st count by 2 sts every row. Make colour changes as follows:
CC1 – Rows 5-6, 9-10, 13-14, 17-18
CC2 – Rows 25-26, 29-30, 33-34
CC3 – 43-44, 47-48
CC4 – 59-60
MC – All other rows up to Row 72.
Always carry MC yarn up the side, ready to use again. CCs should also be carried until they are no longer needed, then cut leaving a 10cm/ 4″ tail to weave in at the end. Keep corner ch-sp pm in place. Cut yarn leaving a 10cm/ 4″ tail and fasten off at the end of Row 72.
Joining Panels
Use MC and a hook that is 1mm bigger than the one used to crochet the panels.
Lay the panels out so the ends of the contrast colours are on the outside edge and the final MC rows are on the inside of the blanket (see Joining Schematic).
Join 1 – Working with Panels A & B, hold the two long MC edges together with Panel A closest to you. Place hook through BLO of first st of Panel A and FLO of first st of Panel B, join yarn with a ss. Continue to ss join ea dc and ch along the length of Panel A BLO and Panel B FLO to dc before corner ch-sp markers, ch1. Hold Panels C & D with the two long MC edges together and Panel C closest to you. SS join the length of Panel C BLO and Panel D FLO from dc after corner ch-sp markers (remove markers), to final st, cut yarn and fasten off.
Join 2 – Working with Panels A & C, hold the two short MC edges together with Panel C closest to you. Place hook through BLO of first st of Panel C and FLO of first st of Panel A, join yarn with a ss. Continue to ss join ea dc and ch along the length of Panel C BLO and Panel A FLO to dc before corner ch-sp markers, remove markers, ch1. SS over the ch1 made in the middle of Join 1. Continue to ss join along Panel D BLO and Panel B FLO from dc after corner ch-sp markers, to final st. Do not cut yarn, move onto Border Rounds.
Border Rounds
Use MC still attached from Join 2, and a hook that is 0.5mm bigger than the one used to make the panels. There is no real RS/WS for these panels. When working Rnd 1, make sure you trap the carried yarns into the dc to hide them. A break down of the st count for Rnd 1 is given in the schematic.
Rnd 1: extend loop a little, 1dcBLO in row end closest to hook, pm for beg of rnd (move up ea rnd), 1dcBLO in every row/ starting ch to first corner (see Supporting Image 3), *ch1, pm corner ch-sp (move up ea rnd), 1dcBLO in every row end/ starting ch (including ss at Joins 1 & 2) to next corner; rep from * twice more, ch1, pm corner ch-sp (move up ea rnd), 1dcBLO in every row end/ starting ch (including ss at Join 2) to beg of rnd pm, pm last st of rnd, keeping the yarn tight, ss into beg of rnd (doesn’t count as a st). (652 sts) O
Rnd 2: extend loop a little, 1dcBLO in same st as ss just made to join rnd, *1dcBLO in ea st to corner ch-sp, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in corner ch-sp; rep from * three more times, 1dcBLO in ea st to pm, ss into beg of rnd (doesn’t count as a st). (660 sts) O
Rnds 3-5: rep Rnd 2. (668/676/684 sts) O O O
If you have yarn leftover, you may be able to add extra rounds. You will need approximately 20g per round. Cut yarn and fasten off leaving a 10cm/ 4″ tail and use Invisible Join method to finish of final round.
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